Saturday, May 11, 2013

Something I've never seen before...

At the bar at The Four Seasons.

Smoking cognac, whiskey and rum.


Visiting Milan

Half day tour of Milan today.

La Scala, the Duomo and The Last Supper.

La Scala is smaller than I expected but the stage is enormous.  No pictures allowed inside.

Obligatory picture of the Duomo


The Last Supper is much bigger than I expected.  Also no pictures allowed.

Milan is an easy city to get around.  I walked everywhere. I did not have any reason to use the metro so I did not get to add another city to the list of cities with a less confusing subway system than NYC.

Earned the Foursquare Molto Buono Level 4 badge at lunch.  That's 35 Italian restaurants I've checked into.  I won't live long enough to earn the same level with Indian restaurants.

Going to rest a bit and then do some more shopping.  Not much else to do in Milan.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Rosolio - Mystery solved

Well, kinda solved.

Who remembers the bottle of Rosolio that my father had for something like 40 years?  The bottle that after 40 years was still nearly full. Because it is horrible. Tastes like soap.  This ringing a bell for anyone?  We always wondered about the origin of that bottle.

It turns out that Rosolio is very popular in Sicily.  There are 2 flavors -- cinnamon and rose petal.




And, in case you were wondering, the rose petal flavor is just as horrible in Sicily as it is at home.  

In Milan

I said goodbye to Aldo at Castello Camemi 


wished Etna well 


and flew up to Milan today.  I'm staying at the Four Seasons which is in the heart of the shopping district.  I spent some time this afternoon shopping. Bought shoes! I keep thinking of Queen Latifah in Last Holiday -- "Make me European."  

Tomorrow is a half day tour and more shopping.  

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Sicilian breakfast



Most of these cakes are some form of ricotta


Day 5 ride

To Gulfi Winery.

24 miles with a bunch of long climbs over the hills.

I am officially worn out. 5 days of long rides is my limit.  My hip is definitely healed and finally strong again.  I cannot wait to return home and do some long rides in CT on my own bike.

Picture of the vineyards at Gulfi


Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Day 4 Ride

Drizzling all morning.

Another 30 miles.

We rode into 4 hill towns. The main problem with hill towns is that they tend to be on the top of hills.

Enjoy the magnificent approach to Vizzini.


Staying at Castello Camemi


Pastry Shop

After our long ride to Ragusa, I was hungry so I wandered into the city to find a pastry shop.  The pastry in Sicily is the best in all of Italy.  The shop I entered had a young woman behind the counter and an old man sitting at one of the two tables.  She speaks more English than I do Italian. No problem. You only need a few words of Italian to order food. I proceed to order 2 small pastries and a cup of tea.  I also indicate that I am going to sit at the other table to enjoy my snack.  The old man is watching this entire episode and even though he does not speak a word of English he proceeds to have a conversation with me.

Americano?
Si.
Mama.... Papa... Sicilian?
No.
Italiano?
Si.

He then points at his face and says something that I don't understand.
The woman explains that he thinks I look like a Sicilian.
Of course I do. This is about the 10th time I have heard this in the last few days.

The woman brings my pot of tea and just as I am about to pour some into my cup he grabs the pot and swirls it around. Apparently, in his opinion, it has not brewed enough.

He then wants to know what I am doing in Ragusa.
I explain in my best Italian that I am biking and arrived in Ragusa by bike.
He then indicates with his hands that I must be really strong to ride up the steep hills.
He then says something to the woman and she returns with a plate of cookies.  She explains that he does not think I have had enough to eat after my hard ride.  He then indicates that I should dunk the cookies into my tea.

How can you not love Italy?


Day 3 Ride Pictures

I rode from the bottom of the valley to the top of Ragusa.

Here is a picture from the top


Rode down this hill and then up the next ridge seen in the distance


Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Ragusa

Day 3 of biking was the best so far.  We biked 30 miles from our hotel in Noto to Ragusa.  The ride was challenging and included a lot of climbing.  The ride into Ragusa itself was all uphill about 3 miles of a gentle slope (for my biking friends, like Hut Hill) and finished with a series of steep switchbacks to our hotel in the new town.

Even though we are staying in "new town" our hotel is an old palace converted into a hotel. It consists of all these crazy hallways and staircases and it is easy to get lost.

We stopped for a wonderful lunch at Tenuto Carbonaro, an agriturismo in San Giacomo.

No pictures today since the hotel wifi is malfunctioning and I'm using my phone as a hotspot.  I'll post pictures when we get to our next destination.  

Monday, May 6, 2013

Testa Dell'Acqua

Testa Dell'Acqua is a town near Noto that we've ridden through twice now and have yet to see anyone in the town center.  

Here is a picture of the rush hour activity in the town center


Day 2 Ride

Today was a 30 mile ride from the villa down through the wine growing region of the south eastern part of Sicily ending at Marzamemi on the sea.

The trip included a wine tasting at the Planeta winery.  I'm not a wine expert by any stretch of the imagination but the tasting including 2 wines with grapes indigenous to Sicily. To all my wine drinking friends: don't worry I am having a case of these wines shipped back home.

The wine making facilities of Planeta are all underground like the bat cave:


Here are some pictures of the Sicilian country side




More food...

As you are probably not surprised to hear, the food in Sicily has been exceptional.  

I was worried that all the dishes would consist of fishes that I don't like.  On the contrary, the fish dishes have had tuna, shrimp or octopus.  Yum.  I was also pleasantly surprised to discover that almond is a favorite ingredient of Sicilian cooking. 

Here are some more pictures to make you jealous:





Sunday, May 5, 2013

Borgo Alveria

Day one of the tour begins at Borgo Alveria in Noto.

Borgo Alveria is a country resort situated on the site of an old monastery near the ruins of Noto Antica.

It does not look like much from the outside but the inside is exquisite.



After a light lunch, we biked down to the city of Noto, toured the city, stopped for some Granita, and then climbed back up through the ruins of Noto Antica.   Overall, about 21 miles.    I did not take any pictures of the countryside today but I will tomorrow.  

Here is a picture of my ride for the week



Saturday, May 4, 2013

Breakfast

In paradise ...


In what will undoubtedly not be the last pictures of food in this blog

This was a carrot and leek dish that I had for dinner.  It was as good as it looks.


Leaving this morning to bike to places unknown.


In Sicily

I cannot begin to describe how beautiful my hotel is.  I could die here and be happy.

I'm writing this while sitting at this wonderful bar overlooking the beach.

I've already transitioned into the Italian way of life... organized chaos and easy-going aggressiveness.  It is truly a country of contrast.

The trip from the airport afforded excellent views of Mt Etna. I did not expect it to be so imposing.  It is hard to miss the smoldering mountain that towers over the island.

Today is a relaxing day at the beach to rest up for the biking that starts early tomorrow morning.

The pictures are the views from my hotel room.



The Trip

The trip was very smooth. All flights on time and no problem with the airport transfer. Milan airport is much bigger than I expected it to be.

Overheard in the security line at JFK... "what do you mean I can't carry a bottle of wine on the plane?" Do these people live under rocks?

TSA PreScreen does not apply to international flights.

Unlocked the FourSquare Local Badge for "checking in at the same place three days in one week!" at JFK Airport. Not sure if I should be happy or sad about that.